Time slows ...
The publishing endeavours of yesteryears
(or, Gazette du Bon Ton and what came later)
1 Thoảng Hương
In 1971 we decided to publish a book, a collection of poems and short stories – really more snippets of thoughts in prose than short stories.
The earliest verse in that book to be was one I wrote back in 1968, the year of the Tết Offensive. Written after that Tết though it had nothing to do with the war. It was about the flagrance, in my mind at least at the time, of a Year 12 student who left it behind when she walked past my house. She wore the uniform of white áo dài, white pants. She walked with long flowing hair, with her slightly younger sister, the latter back from her own school. This was at noon, a few days a week. I was home from the same school with her some ten minutes earlier, fast-paced for a young boy. At the time the Girls’ High hadn’t yet catered for Year 12, so it was my school’s privilege to be graced upon by those few, herself in particular.
I stood inside the small cemented porch of the house and waited for her. I must have looked rather stupid but the brazen effort was more than worth it. I wanted to look at her, again and again. Day after day, month after month.
She was exceptionally beautiful. Even now, remembering back, she still is.
After a month or two of these occurrences, she noticed. Thereafter whenever she walked past me waiting for her at the spot, she giggled with her sister. I didn’t mind, but never had the courage to approach her and humbly introduce myself. I was only twelve, shameless yet sadly not bold enough. I never discovered her name though the fact didn't affect my infatuation.
I wrote a poem, Thoảng Hương – The Remains of Her Fragrance. My two mates liked it very much. They opined that the verse was both dreamy and radical because I also described her face and glorious body under the áo dài, not just her (imaginary or not) fragrance. They liked it, even if it really had become rather dated with the passage of time. That is, apart from two lines. One described the out-worldly features of her face, and the other, the one that they kept on reciting, depicted the swell of her breasts under the silk of the áo dài (probably fine cotton but it was silk to me, all silk: her hair, her complexion, her clothes, her breasts underneath). I thought those lines were simply realism, outlasting the three years that had gone by.
I moved away from the rented house, an annual event of my youth, soon after vacation started.
The mates wanted to tittle our book with the poem’s name. It, the book, was to be almost a hundred pages. The printing was to be by ronéo, the typing mostly by myself who had borrowed an old typewriter and who could do the job quickly and accurately. The task was both an honour and a torture: striking the keys to punch through the wax of the stencils was never easy for the fingertips and my young heart.
But what about the cover? Ronéo too, on the same type of paper - lamentably so, poor and without style, or something less mundane? And if so, where is the money.
On this subject we deferred to this particular mate among us three. His name was Hải. He pronounced that it would betray our achievements and, nodding at me, the flowing of the heavenly hair, of the áo dài, and of the protagonist in her complete self; it would destroy all that if we had had a lousy cover. Who was he, asking himself rhetorically, an el cheapo who couldn’t make a half-decent front for his literary friends?
How was he going to do it then? By hard plastic stencilling and silk-screen printing, naturally. He said with the confidence of a true artist, generously implying that his two mates knew what he was talking about.
We, nodding sagely, of course had not a single clue.
2 Lucien Vogel, Charles Martin et al.
Martin was active in Paris from a hundred odd years ago in his twenties. I came across his works the most from my copy of Sports et Divertissements illustrating the pianist Eric Satie’s short amusing compositions; a particular favourite being Le Golf (see post “Tram”, January 2022, “Time Slows…”).
.....
Long Vo-Phuoc, June 2022
Tram
(Fun with the (here and the) there)
With the above, second, heading I do sound like a chap suffering misty eyes over the 70s movies – as in, Fun with Dick and Jane. To me, there has been no one who is “funner” to watch than Jane Fonda at the height of her careers (Barbarella Jane and Hanoi Jane), her quirky expressions, her eyebrows and lips, her form, all these things together simply stirring many a young chap’s heart no end; not least the photos of her in helmet next to a tank near Ha Noi, sitting on a long gun or caressing an AK47. I was annoyed with Hanoi Jane in 1972, but I was young then, not prepared to separate beauty from politics under all circumstances. Nowadays, well, I like all her 70s Janes without the slightest murmur.
And of course (only as an aside to Jane? I am prejudiced!) George Segal was absolutely hilarious – not quite as when he was with Glenda Jackson (remember their fighting scene in the bedroom?), but entertaining nevertheless when robbing banks with Jane.
Anyway I didn’t mean to carry on too much about Dick and Jane. I really meant the here and the there. That is, I miss traveling. One year absentia, no problem. Two years, well, I do have books to read, paperwork to catch up, and conundrums to ponder on the market, liquidity and supply bottlenecks – and not to forget the poor in Africa, who, in between wars and unrests and institutional corruption, couldn’t even have a look-in to anything the last two years, depressing as it always is.
Now the time has gone on to three years, and there is still simply no “there” at all for practical reasons. I miss it, what can I say, never mind books and paperwork and statistics and old and new theories and evidences and tiresome algorithms. I do miss the there.
The only thing I can do now is to reminisce a little. Let’s speak short-term short-term. No point going back 50 years and feel, calling a spade a spade, depressed over old stuffs. Let’s talk three, four, five years for now. What does one miss?
Well, a tram is right on top of the list. A tram that carries one from A to B, in a different city, a different land. It’s crawlingly slow by nature, not wanting to run over anyone, any bicycle. It sounds a moderate ding when someone gets too close at the front, a few metres say. The seat is small, in vinyl blue, rows of two by two separated by a narrow walkway in the centre. Big space to stand at the back of a carriage, four altogether, holding on to each other’s waist, tagging and snaking along the steel tracks of the city, powered by the complicated wiring above. A hundred year-old service, give or take.
Where does one go to with it? Ah, one can do a trip from the Central Station (having earlier started on a different tram from the Opera stop at the head of the lake, then changes here), to Hardturmstrasse where one picks up a book and a small present. The book? Sports et Divertissements, Paris, 1923. Quite a nice gift for an anniversary.
The to-trip is at lunch time, busy busy, lots of dings along the tracks courtesy of recalcitrant pedestrians – a schoolgirl hurrying to get her lunch, same with a banker and mates, an old woman in her eighties crossing the track for her shopping, et cetera. A dozen stops, so one sees a flurry of faces, dresses, suits, jackets, jeans. Spring-time you see, it’s cool – as in temperature.
But things take time at Hardturmstrasse, so it’s three when one takes the tram back, meandering through the half-industrial half-office district. One sees a Thai restaurant in a corner, a low-key affair, with the name board faded from the sun. A café here and there, not meant to be anything flashy, a stop where workers and students get off for trains going elsewhere, bicycles by the hundreds on an asphalt strip under trees.
This tram is meant to go a little further than the Central Station, so one says to his companion, his beloved really, let’s go on to the city and have a late lunch, or at least some cake and coffee. In his vision there is a nice cheese cake in an atmospheric place. He would be disappointed as to the quality of the cake or the architectural style of the café, but at least the latte is alright. She would have a salad and tea – and happy enough with them.
You see, they have known each other for more than forty years. They got married quite a while ago. Heavens, it’s a ruby anniversary. Contrary to popular perception about old-time couples these two do have things to chat about, inconsequential things perhaps. Weather, breakfast, personnel in hotel, tram map, train map, plan for tomorrow, is this trip different from the last or not, the children, the market, Trump utterances (amidst big USoA flag-waving), Morrison utterances (amidst very skeptical journalists), sensible yet courageous Merkel opinions, perceptive yet clever Ardern reactions, Charles Martin, Erik Satie, and suddenly (but appropriately because of the anniversary thing), “what made you make that phone call in 1978”, and, “what about that letter later on”?
So on and so forth, as I say, inconsequential things, some maybe not but mostly inconsequential. Yet they keep on chatting, stop after stop, on and on. Still do after all these years, somehow.
The conductor and his heavy iron machine pass Central Station, cross an intricate section with tracks and electrical wire and traffic lights and cars and people. He reaches a stop, then another, the remaining passengers, most remaining passengers, get off. Then he makes a soft announcement into the speaker-phone. In German. He waits, to no effect. He probably sighs. Then he trundles on.
Then he stops, getting out of the cubby seat, and makes one final public announcement for the trip. In English. Tram depot, Tram depot. In his mind: old weirdo lovebirds – in his own tone you understand.
The old couple stop chatting, finding themselves sitting alone in the tram. Sister trams all around. Look on, say, wow, it’s at the back of a city street, but it’s quiet here. A tram depot, no kidding. Look at each other, better stop carrying on for now, let’s go somewhere for lunch.
Thus that was the there, three years back. Time flies, in more ways than one (but what is the standard way of time?). I do miss the traveling, no question.
(Satie and Martin? Well, below are two samples from the book. Satie wrote the music, Martin created the drawings, the pochoir printing was done by Jean Saude. These guys were tops of their lines in post-war-I Paris. I love this book principally because of the sublime though antique printing – it reminds me of my mate Hai fifty years ago, printing the covers of our literary creations in 1970-72 by woodcut and stenciling. Fifty, that was fast of time, over an abyss or two. Cheers mate, have a sip of vino on me, enjoy the colours and landscapes of the other side. Chat more one day.)
Long Vo-Phuoc, Jan 2022.
Winter musings
I love July in this town, what can I say. I love it since 1974, in love, since 1975 when my back was against the wall. I love it every year thereafter, the wall in 1976 was still as rough as the year before. 1977, ah, a little smoother. 1978? An enlightened year, when colours constantly changing hues and shapes in the mind, in the eyes, even during the despairing few months when my treasured Valentine unfathomably got quite annoyed with me. And 1979, what a lovely year, and the 80s.
In the 90s my back was against the wall often – a different set of battles this time, and I was one hell of a lot more prepared. The thugs in front of me all looked similar, wearing pretty good suits, having powerful computer power, by and large having acquired some education from their universities (although uniformly lacking a sense, a deep knowledge, of history – essential in these battles) – quite a few PhDs from good institutions. They got nice large umbrellas set up above them, covering them, their employers that was, having big bucks big resources – the Goldmans of this world, the Warburgs, the Macquaries ... I had none other than what put together, heart and mind, by my Valentine, what a good cover that was. But you know what, their katanas were somehow not as sharp as mine, their steel somehow an inferior grade despite the back-up respective fortunes. Their skills, well, left much to be desired.
So yes, sometimes I played with fire, testing my katana. I often invited trouble for myself. Invariably the rough walls were right behind me in no time. And the opponents accumulated in front, raring for a royal battle. Ah, those times were fun. The winter and spring of 1994 (1991 was superb, 1989, 1990, 92, 93 were real rough but I survived) were excellent, so was 1995 and 1996. 1997 was tough at first but I eventually cut their swords. 1998 was rougher, harder battle, same result. 1999 I lived practically by the border of AbyssLand but got back to the living by mid-2000, just. Frankly, it was fine and fun only when you survived at the end, but I tell you, it wasn’t when you’re in the middle of it. You would see the abysses everywhere, leaning tiredly on the katana, waiting for the enemies.
These days I don’t test my mental resources to that extent – I’m quite older and have other interest, well, such as writing these notes to amuse myself. My body, hmmm, it’s the one that would like very much to test me nowadays, for its own fun this time round. No fun for me though. It’s tricky double tricky, tricky powered to the umpteenth degree. Infinity, in a real sense.
Like today, my back was kind of against the wall, another sort of walls. The particular wall I came across only once, recently. Very unfamiliar, this mean sob of a wall.
And somehow, tonight, alone in the rather large balcony, sipping 1991 Eileen Hardy, looking at the dark of the July garden down there, this old house that I’ve lived in so many years, that I finally got renovated; somehow I remember an anecdote from way past … An anecdote of being pushed against the wall, and in front of you there is a sharp katana wielded by a mean sob of a swordsman.
Have you ever heard of wuxia novels? No, yes? Well, a few quick words from me. They are a genre of fantasy fictions from Chinese writers, produced mostly from the last century although some might have existed prior in a less structured form. They are kind of like Western stories in the US. They often resemble Lord of The Rings but not supernatural (unlike the (can I be honest?) dumb vampires series that are quite popular to teens around the world these days). If anything they are not dissimilar to science fiction, less learned, sure, but very atmospheric (you need to know some Chinese history and particularly geography) and addictive, and have reasonable varieties. Their authors are, certainly used to be, scribes in Hong Kong and Taiwan. Their settings are mostly China in the Middle Age (Mongolian China, say). Their heroes and heroines had fantastic physical prowess (the ladies supremely alluring yet virtuous!), in particular swordsmanship. Ever seen the movie Crouching Dragon Hidden Tiger? Ah it’s exactly like that, but through thousands of pages. All East-Asian males, rarely females (this lovely human species being simply too practical for this “nonsense”), young or old, from Hong Kong to Taipei to Sai Gon to Nha-Trang to Singapore, South Korea and Japan too (although the Japanese have their own version, a la the Musashi saga) loved them. 10 years old. 70 years old. School pupils, learned writers, corrupt politicians, etc.. Translated from the Chinese naturally.
The most famous authors were Louis Cha (Jin Yong) and Gu Long, both died decades ago (correction, early August, Louis Cha died only three years ago, living to the ripe old age of 94; Gu Long died young at 47 in 1985). Jin Yong was sophisticated and literary, not least evocative in narrative and the building of characters, and possessed superb story-line structure - akin to Alexandre Dumas, but broader, much more sweeping. Gu Long had very good touches of the detective novel in his books despite straying often onto the hyperbole.
Now, let’s get back to my against the wall musings. Well there was this charming main character of a saga (really a series of seven books), Lu Xiaofeng, late 20s or early 30s something, his eyebrows looked exactly like his mustache - the appearance trademark. He’s not good with the sword, instead it’s his hands, his fingers really, that made him the most feared hero of the land. You see, in duels he grabbed his opponent’s sword, broke it, threw it away, defeating the poor chap. He didn’t really kill many, but the opposites obviously would suffer great shame at his hand.
(I did say that it’s all fantasy, and the ladies thought it’s ridiculous. I was 10, 13, 16 – enjoying wuxia in between Vo Phien, Nguyen Tuan, Nguyen Sa, Lu Hsun, Gide, Maurois, Steinbeck … You can't blame me for being too stupid.)
One day he met this super villain who, not only was carrying the title of the greatest sword on the land, but also wanted to murder the emperor in order to place himself on the throne. Lu needed to put a stop to that dastardly deed (Lu was pretty docile, somewhat boring: he never liked real chaos), started a great duel on the roof of the Forbidden Palace. Right at the end, right on the moment the sword started to slice through his throat he grabbed it with all five fingers. Duel over.
Months later another tough challenged Lu's mettle. This mean tough had a dozen underlings, all skilled chappies. He’s also quite clever – starting the duel first with Lu, then the dozen dirty guys moving in behind our hero. This would be the end for Lu.
But not quite. Before any of the low lives dipped a pointy metal into his spine, Lu was able to grab the mean clever tough’s sword. Though he had to use all five fingers again. Nobody said it was easy, these duels.
The tough, quite despondent, dropped his sword and said, ashen-faced: At least, Xiaofeng, at least tell me I was just as strong as the pretender to the Son of Heaven’s Throne?
Well, Lu replied, being honest and magnanimous in the same breath, well, you know, you mean bastard, I fought you with a dozen swords right behind my back, and …
And? (the tough led on, thinking of suicide)
Well, behind me on the Forbidden Palace happened to be a solid tall wall under a roof.
So there you are, wuxia and the struggles in life. Never easy I tell you.
Long Vo-Phuoc, July 2021 – a rather strange year, strange June and July.
(Written and posted tonight - dry, cool, still, wonderful; things in life almost besides the point. Almost, ah, that's a killer word.)
The King and The Diplomat
1 Kings and their ignorance
2 Thugs ruling the world
3 The apprentice diplomat
4 The 1879 Hue cover to a mademoiselle
1 Kings and their ignorance
Since long ago I often wonder how things would have changed if Tu-Duc had been more of an open mind, more communicative, practical, knowledgeable. A little learning goes a long way, and in his case would have saved a kingdom, a people - Tu Duc, and his grandfather the stiff and stubborn Minh Mang. The grandfather was a stronger man but sadly even more curmudgeon. Single-mindedness is the hallmark of people who achieve things, as long as it doesn’t lead directly to disaster, the other side of the coin.
Tu-Duc was king of Viet-Nam, reigning during 1847-83. Before him was his father, Thieu-Tri, reigning 1841-47, and grandfather, Minh-Mang, 1820-1840. Minh-Mang’s father was Gia-Long, the founder of the Nguyen (more formally, “Nguyen-Phuc” or “Nguyen-Phuoc”) royal dynasty: they were Lords of Southern Vietnam for centuries since 1558. Gia-Long eventually reunited the country in 1802, reigned till 1819.
Hue was the capital of the South since the late 16th century, and of the united nation since 1802.
(Before Gia-Long another leader from the South attempted to unite the country, king Quang-Trung, born 1752 in Tay-son, Binh-Dinh, near the capital Vijaya of the old kingdom Champa that was sacked by the Viets in 1471. Quang-Trung was formidable in military but weak in management, king only for 4 years until in 1792. He was brave and energetic all his life. He famously defeated the attempted invasion by the well-known Chinese Ching (“Qing”) emperor Qianlong in a serious of decisive battles near Ha Noi in 1789, the year when another country on the other side of the world was deep in turmoil. He died early in 1792 from ill heath, and his young sons lost out to Gia-Long in 1802. Northern Vietnam was, until the rise of Quang-Trung, ruled by the Trinh Lords since 1558, nominally under the banner of the Le dynasty. The Japanese had a similar arrangement over a similar period with shoguns and emperors.)
Gia-Long was a practical man, a political entrepreneur if one thinks of politics as a grand game of geo-business, which it in fact is. Apart from one grave error later on, during his reign, Gia-Long mostly understood the bigger picture, the picture of a world consisting of not only Viet-Nam and China but also of neighbours such as Xiem-la, now Thailand, and that menacing power from the other side of daylight, the French Empire - an understanding that was lacking by most of his contemporaries and sadly and fatally by his monarch-descendants. The power last mentioned had big guns, big ocean-going ships, and a heart of darkness, very much in line with European morality at the time. Chaps in Europa then were always happy to kill in the name of god, their god in the church but also the gods whose other names were gold, spice, lands, slaves, and sundry exotic materials that they didn’t have - ask the British, the Spanish, the Belgians. And don’t forget the Dutch, the Portuguese, the Germans, the Danish, the Italians, the Russians, the Turks, and so on. It was as if Europeans were so nasty as to make up for a lousy low life suffered not so long before - the Dark Age of a thousand years.
Back to Gia-Long. His fatal error was the refusal of earnest overtures from the British who was then the greatest power on earth. Three times the British offered presents and sought audiences and three times Gia-Long rudely ignored. No presents, no audience, no treaty, no playing-off one against another. Thus no second example of Thailand in the Far-East. And no chance, as such, to preserve the kingdom from French treacherous hostility later on. Within eighty years of the height of his power Viet Nam would fall to France.
I believe he ignored the British because of sentimental loyalty to French missionaries who sought his favour by helping him against the powerful Quang-Trung. The latter was more than a match in battles for Gia-Long or indeed for anyone in the realm, defeating Xiem-La (Thailand) and huge China, one after another, within a span of seven years. The French missionaries’ help to Gia-Long wasn’t much in the big scheme of things, but the king was grateful. And it was also likely that the same French Catholics had instilled a dislike of the Protestants in the mind of the king, an Asian who was not familiar with the twist and turn of Christianity (and neither really did the Christians who believed in the same god, the same doctrines and bible but were very keen in killing each other in the 16th and 17th centuries, and off and on thereafter, here and there! Ah, religions and their practitioners.)
But there you are, a mistake like that, when the world was raw. A nation, a people, tremendous bloodsheds and humiliation, were the price to pay for.
Now, in the late 18th century. Gia-Long wanted to unite the kingdom and was not above using foreign powers to influence events in Viet Nam. He brought the Thai army to Southern Viet Nam to force the issue against his opposite, Quang-Trung’s clan. That failed. So he dabbled in obtaining French influence to further his quest, as mentioned above. That endeavor didn’t amount to much, he was eventually successful because of Quang-Trung’s early death and of his (Gia-Long’s) own strength in the country, but that goes to show he was a rare global opportunist among the Viets at the time. His son, Prince Canh, at the age of seven in 1787 signed (with the help of diplomats) in Paris a rudimentary treaty with Louis XVI of France - this was more than 200 years ago, don’t forget, when the world was young. After becoming King of the realm (Emperor was the term he preferred) Gia-Long gave concessions to France on commerce and for spreading further Catholicism. This last specific gesture created much consternation among his family and his mandarins, perhaps in the populace as well, conservative when human establishments confront different ideas of faith. Much like the Romans before Constantine, putting Christians to the lions’ mouth.
It was that domestic political tension that would later destroy the legacy of Gia-Long’s ahead-of-time globalism. Has Crown Prince Canh succeeded him Viet-Nam might have progressed the relationship further with the French and, who knows, with the British as well. A more relaxed relation than what endured in China, certainly (contemporaneous rumours indicated that Canh was secretly baptised). More like Thailand, Persia. Perhaps Japan.
Alas, Canh died young from ill health (some said poisoned by his brother Minh-Mang), aged 21, and Minh-Mang succeeded Gia-Long. The reign of Minh Mang lasted twenty years. The stubbornness, narrow-mindedness mixed with personal mental strength would make Minh Mang unpopular, feared. Many rebellions were ruthlessly put down. Relationship to France came to a halt, then fatally reversed. Missionaries were persecuted, new Viet converts went to prisons, some executed. Economic management was maintained, but seeds of weakness, of failure, were sown. There was no commerce with the French or Western foreigners. Minh-Mang, born in power and riches, having developed so-called Chinese-influenced classic-inclined personal traits, was really a spoilt child who became king.
His son Thieu Tri was weak and indecisive, a kinder but ineffectual king in reality, in turn succeeded by the conservative Tu Duc who held a long reign confronting the naked ambition of France, France that was now ready to put grievances against Minh-Mang into fruition.
Tu-Duc could still have played a better hand at the wheel of faith (“could have would have” are of course ridiculous words). He could have looked at the question of commerce and global politics more closely – the China he revered was now truly humiliated by the British and all and sundry. He could have learnt from that. He could have been more knowledgeable, alas. But he and his men at court amused themselves solely by lines of classic Chinese poems – Li Po and Tu Fu and so on, certainly not the exceptionally liberal yet sophisticated lines from the rebellious Viet poet Cao Ba Quat. He continued the closed border against France and such and thought that would solve any problem pertaining. War would be hard work and full of uncertainty (Elizabeth I said it first), but such he and his court would not know - his court, men only, old, never energetic, was a sad typical sign of the time. Ignorant, weak, stubborn, blind belief in non-existent strengths, thought themselves scholars but really a bunch of parrots having simply learnt a few lines of Chinese poems here and there; a ripe recipe for disaster. There were some decent men (the diplomat Phan Thanh Gian and the general Nguyen Tri Phuong) who were few and far in between but, again, very old for the tasks at hand.
2 Thugs ruling the world
Tu-Duc repeatedly knocked back new French overtures and never sought friendship with another land. After a few years, the French trumped up an excuse (a death of a missionary, the old tiresome cause), attacked Da Nang then invaded Southern Viet-Nam, causing death to tens of thousands of Viet and maybe a hundred or so French soldiers. Cochinchina was born, 1859.
The French empire and their opportunistic commercial adventurers now looked closely at Northern Viet Nam, Tonkin in their nomenclature. Things moved rapidly from here. A profiteer, Jean Dupuis (the world was full of these nasty specimens of humanity from Britain, France, Spain and the Netherlands, etc., who stood proudly side by side with their nations’ navies and armies in exploiting the world) schemed with a like-minded human specimen, the French captain Francis Garnier, to invade Northern Viet Nam. This was against international law, such as it was. It’s even more glaring in that France was still trying to get Viet-Nam officially cede the Southern provinces to it.
The scheme was that Dupuis went up North, starting a commercial ruckus against the Viet regional government (I know, how a trader, a big bully notwithstanding, could muster enough firepower against a “native” administration and army to cause a ruckus? But gun powder spoke louder than words – and this was a play British traders performed to perfection in India the centuries before, Dutch traders in Indonesia … Belgians in Congo. The traders and the missionaries went first, arrogantly cooked up excuses, the invading navies and armies quickly followed, flimsily covering base intentions but always with powerful guns and rotting colonial hearts).
Then Garnier was to follow with a regiment of less than two hundred and a few small warships that still had serious canons, broadcasting that he would subdue Dupuis. In reality, his ultimate boss in Cochinchina, Admiral Jules-Marie Dupre, had already said yes please, secretly amused that the clever boys were acting things out so well indeed. There was no question of Garnier sorting anything out with Dupuis. Rather, the two French heroes conquered Tonkin (something to make up for the shocking and shameful defeat at the hands of the Germans on French soils just three years prior!): in quick succession grabbing Ha-Noi and the provinces Ninh-Binh, Nam-Ding. The Viets died fighting the French, then cowed under the colonialists’ single-mindedness. The brave Field Marshall Nguyen Tri Phuong was wounded after the fall of Ha-Noi, refused food and “care” from the French and their Viet acolytes, and died. His son and son-in-law too perished in battle.
Garnier and Dupuis installed a puppet administration consisting of Viet junior mandarins who were Catholics and who welcomed French arrival. Riches and glories now laid readily on the ground for Dupuis, Garnier, Dupre and France.
It was exceptionally blatant. Even with King Tu-Duc not having a friendly European power to protest to, it was still blatant. Paris was “upset” (because London and Berlin nearby were complaining, missing out the spoils?), scolded Dupre and commanded the latter to behave himself, to rectify the exploitation to a more palatable extent.
Thus Dupre sent a naval lieutenant, Paul-Louis-Felix Philastre, to Hue to seek an audience with king Tu-Duc.
3 The apprentice diplomat
There is a conundrum that’s always in my mind whenever reading, re-reading, history: that is, do I believe in the kindness of strangers? Do I believe in the possibility that an adversary might turn side solely because of her/his inherent goodwill, without expectation of benefit, without planning for reward, but with substantial personal risk, physical or otherwise? Do I, when contemplating French homicidal nastiness upon Viet-Nam, concede to a kind unselfish gesture from an adversary? ((That is, of course, apart from love, sexual love, between members of opposite sides. Such love transcends things but lays outside the scope of this particular discussion!)
Call me a cynic, sure, but what is cynicism if not practicality incarnated? When your side is forever in the losing position. A victor may be benevolent in thoughts (a “may” that is, in reality, “no”), but the defeated can not afford to be generous – there is nothing to be generous with.
So what am I to make of this guy, Philastre? A lowly ranked officer, only a lieutenant, moderately learned at this stage in military and administration from France’s naval school, arrived in Southern Viet Nam at the tender age of 24 in the midst of the French land grab. Then ordered to manage colonial affairs in various towns there, My Tho for instance. Became a judiciary officer dealing with the “natives”, the Viets, that is. Became ill, back to France, recovered then fought against Germany in 1870-71 (rather distinguishedly, in charge of an artillery regiment). France lost this war badly, the “emperor” Napoleon III was imprisoned by the German army and died, Paris surrendered. The eyes of other powers were looking keenly at the Germans so France lost only Alsace and Lorraine, everything else intact including the thuggish occupation of the colonies. Philastre returned to Saigon in 1873, working for Dupre – an ebullient bully who believes in the religion of colonialism.
Somehow Philastre was still a lieutenant despite his significant duties in “Cochinchina” and France. He didn’t play so well by the military rules? But consider this, a lieutenant was sent to represent France for a conference with the King of a realm, one with size and population, not to mention history, not so much smaller than France. A lieutenant! That was the height of French arrogance.
See, that’s the way the French, British, Dutch, Spanish, Germans … treated people at the colonies. They sent lackeys to do a serious job. They sent a captain to beat a whole army of the opposite. They never stooped down, nah, even showed a flicker of recognition, when dealing with the “indigenous” power in the colonies. You would think Dupre would go to Hue. Or his Deputy, another Admiral, a colonel … No, just a lieutenant, 36 years of age.
Philastre arrived in Hue. The Viet King was obviously upset with this delegate from France. He was humiliated badly enough losing Ha-Noi in such a soul-destroying fashion, and now had to hear nonsense from a lieutenant. Thus the King received the diplomat poorly. The latter had to wait for days, stayed in a not-so luxurious apartment, had very little attention from the Viet court. He only had his small team to confer with – a team, alas, that weren’t so experienced nor could offer any intellectual companionship for the lieutenant, and a few Viet diplomats who spoke some French. To while his time he did some thinking. He did the thinking, looked around the limited landscape that he was confined to. He looked around, did some thinking.
And, surprise, he understood better the situation in a philosophical sense more than all other French up to that point. Becoming enlightened, even if I myself say so.
He was belatedly received by the King, humbly accepted grievances from the throne. Is this what France calls decency, negotiating on the one hand so as to officially eat up other people’s land whilst on the other hand greedily eat up another? Is this the French style of civilization? And who are you to speak to me, Lieutenant, what can you achieve here, on this hallowed ground?
Philastre accepted all that, because a decent man could not deny the obvious facts of a murderous bully. Without further ado he promised the King that he was to go up North to sort out the thuggish Garnier and Dupuis. He was the diplomat, representing Dupre, representing France. France stands on his shoulder, on his personal integrity, he was not simply a humble naval officer.
The King, not having much faith in a French promise, couldn’t do much else. But he was mollified a little, not because of a possible favourable outcome, but because he found Philastre congenial. Dared he think, privately, dared he think that he had met a French that he could like?
Philastre went North with his small diplomatic contingent and the slightly larger Viet escort. They used the same warship docking in the port of Da Nang nearby. He arrived in Ha Noi on December 20 1873. From the time Garnier seized Ha Noi to the time Philastre got there after Hue it took only one month – such was the power of the Europeans: they have ocean-going vessels, as said, carrying great guns, as said.
It just so happened that Garnier died the next day in a skirmish against Viet forces. This sealed the fate and direction of Philastre’s future career, though delayed only by a few years, a decade in fact, the inevitable French full invasion of Northern Viet Nam (and, soon after, Hue and the Central, the whole Viet nation).
Philastre took charge, using experience over the years running French errands in Southern Viet Nam and Cambodia. He banished the nasty Dupuis from interfering in French affairs despite the latter’s strenuous protest. He sacked all new Catholic mandarins installed by Garnier, and reinstated previous Viet mandarins as King Tu-Duc wished. He signed agreement with the Viets to withdraw French (Garnier’s) troops from nearby provinces of Ninh Binh and Nam Dinh. And on 6 February 1874, six weeks after his arrival, evacuated French troops from Ha Noi and the region.
It was true, revenge was taken on Viet Catholics after the French left. The loss of lives, perhaps to a hundred or so, that resulted was much lower than the tens of thousands of Viet lives died in battles fighting Garnier. A life lost is the same as another, and one thing always leads to another, human history particularly.
Philastre left Ha-Noi with French troops for Sai Gon to face the wrath of Dupre. But at least he (Philastre) had done the right thing by Paris that wished, on the surface at least, to restore the rules of international diplomacy such as it was. He also had Tu-Duc’s very agreeable terms (provided the French left Ha Noi) for Cochinchina. Dupre had to accept the fait accompli, and got the right treaty anyway. “Cochinchina” was now French, in reality and on paper. But he hated Philastre. He could not fathom the kind of an anti-colonialist Philastre had become. And thus, despite efficient management and stunning diplomatic success, Philastre was not promoted, a lowly naval lieutenant he continued to be. Dupre received accolade and rewards, and France bided its time for the next move whilst silently punishing the like of Philastre.
Yet France recognised his talent and empathy for the occupied land, continued to use him extensively in Southern Viet Nam, in Cambodia, in matters of administration, judiciary, diplomacy. The locals were happy to deal with him, listened to him, discussed things with him. Liked him.
Lawrence of Arabia half a century earlier in another far-off place?
Perhaps unlike Lawrence Philastre was a quiet and humble man. He discovered himself in the pursuit of local customs, local languages and culture. He learnt Vietnamese and Chinese, maybe others too. As a judge in these localities he consulted the well-known complete formal law code in Vietnamese until French occupation. The code was compiled by scholars under the auspices of King Gia-Long during 1800-20. He translated it into French, and named it the Annam Law Code. (He would know the term Annam was an insulting word. It literally means “pacified Southern Land”. The Viets referred to their land as Viet Nam, or Dai Viet (Greater Viet Nam) in an earlier age. But I supposed when it was published in Paris, La Code Annamite, in 1876 he had to apply the term the French were used to.)
He went back to Hue in 1877 as Head of Station (Charge d’affaires) until 1879. The Viets there now liked him, and accorded him all courtesy and conveniences. I am sure he had many a congenial conference with the king and other mandarins – stuffy and ignorant they still were, but they liked him. He didn’t overstay, however, went back to Paris in 1880. Later taught maths in a few French cities, died in 1902, aged 65. Tu-Duc had died a little less than twenty years prior on the other side of the world, when Viet Nam was well under the boots of Philastre's compatriots.
4 The 1879 Hue cover to a mademoiselle
The cover above was sent by Philastre in 1879. Apart from diplomatic communication it was one of the earliest from Hue in the modern postal system (Western style, naturally). It’s probably older than most personal and certainly commercial covers. It was addressed to a daughter or an unmarried sister (address care of a Madame Goldsmith), he was 42 at the time. The cover was redirected from Paris to Cannes. On the back were arrival postmarks of Sai Gon, Paris (R(ue) Montaigne) and Cannes. On the front there was a very faint blue octagonal strike from a paquebot - a maritime ocean-going mailboat.
But the most striking, and the most important, postal strikes were the two Hue cancels, one on the stamp and one of the cover by itself by regulation, with “79” by hand, showing Corr. D. Armees and HUE. Emotive, even if it’s a French postmark.
The cover went on 11 Jan 1879 from Hue, reached Sai Gon on 23 Jan likely by a warship, dispatched soon thereafter for a long voyage on the paquebot, got to La Havre on 28 Feb, Paris (Rue Montagne) on 1 March, and finally to Cannes on 3 March 1879 into the young lady’s hand.
This is for you, Mạ, with love, the occasional harsh words against forebears notwithstanding. Peace on the other side, it’s been so long. Long.
Long Vo-Phuoc, March 2021.
All rights reserved.
Time …
There were times (there are times!) that I didn’t think about Huế, didn’t wander the mind back to the images of Huế - those that particularly stood out …
But lately (do the last twenty thirty years count as lately?) I missed the place. So I went back a long way, a private mental journey - go back, go back. Back more than I ever had. I almost drowned.
Eventually I had to write something in the Viet tongue (no question otherwise), a month or two ago. I wrote some, then got stuck. And thought, if I put those lines in the digital print, I might be able to go on further. I hope so at any rate, such as hope is.
So this is the beginning in a way. The few stanzas, using my old Viet words since forty or so years.
Nói chuyện
Bây giờ mình nói chuyện Huế
nói chuyện về Huế
khi trời cuối thu chuyễn gió, mùa đông về không-gian đọng nước lăn từng giọt trên cừa sỗ
năm tháng cuồn cuộn trở lại tâm-hồn
tâm hồn úa héo xứ người
……
nói chuyện như mình còn trẻ, năm xưa, khi Huế
rộng lượng, khe khắc, tuồi thơ,
khi Huế trẻ lại, đẹp-đẽ, trong trắng Chiêm Thành trước Lê trước Nguyễn
nõn-nà kiêu-sa lên ngôi hoàng-hậu
…….
rồi năm tháng rời xa tâm-hồn
và Huế úa-héo, như mình úa-héo,
tháng ngày qua
Có phải Huế đã đẹp như người mẹ trẻ,
dù rằng đời sống không bao giờ chiều lòng người
đời sống thất-vọng
tuyệt-vọng
……..
Long Vo-Phuoc, May 2020
Fish Bowl and a sliver of December
My daughter calls it the fish bowl in the middle of the city. She knows it well enough, occasionally she and colleagues discuss matters of state, literally or not, while sipping coffee there. Other than that she visits it only when having a light brekkie with me.
She is rather unfair to the place. When I say it does have a cathedral ceiling she laughs then patiently enquires, indeed with a straight serious look, as to a tenuous connection to a grand church, a la the Christian places of worship in Milan, Cologne, and such. I reply, I see, but this is about the height of the ceiling we are talking about, I simply assume here the euphemism (continue I) to such a desirable characteristic – to me at any rate, and tell me (to her, that is), any of those fancy cafés in Amsterdam, Vienna, or even windy Melbourne has ceiling this high?
She would not be convinced of my considered reasons. She thinks, without saying it out, that I have become sentimental in older age, trying to bring a touch of the exotic, cathedrals and all, to this much frequented modern place of mine.
We repeat the argument from time to time.
But I’ve been sipping cuppas here for almost thirty years. The one at Grosvenor Place, on the street level that is, was not quite the same and already closed down fifteen years ago. (Why do the years keep building up, these old notions?). I have toasted croissies here, one per sitting, occasionally yoghurt with berries, decent latte, sparkling mineral water very commercially manufactured by senor S. Pellegrino, glass of plain water for a fizzy Berocca to revitalise spirit at seven in the morning. I’ve been doing that all these times, spacious table to myself, large enough for computer, newspapers, folders, phone, pen, whatnots.
Thus I like to call it a café with cathedral ceiling, is it not a reasonable thing to say? To prove the point I have here a photo, pointing North. The curve of the bridge can be made out behind the glass, with a blue sliver of sky. Ah it’s nearly Christmas you know (and stressful bushfires, you know that too), so there is a large plastic tree with decorations next to me. Quite pleasant in all honesty: a little kid now and again would run in with their parents in tow through the revolving door, stand in front of the tree, admire it, then the little family would leave the office building for other amusements, leave me in peace too.
As I said, all in all quite pleasant - in the present tense, mind you.
You might ask, apart from latte and croissie and the tree when December comes what entertainment do I have there? Ah, this is the late 2019 so there is a brand-new tram stop outside, the rebirth from a demise more than half a century ago. The service started only last weekend, looks quite fine, long and purposefully frequent, a little slow perhaps but what do I care about speed, sitting here watching young boys and girls to and fro from work outside, counting the autumns and springs of the years, winters and summers also.
Has my mind drifted back to the Pussycats Brasserie, that place of more than forty years ago? Let me search the forest of neurons for a few moments and I might tell you. But you know what, I have a swell idea. Instead of sitting here and searching the recess of memory how about I take action. I would hop on the tram, tapping the opal card here and there for the fare, and luxuriously sail down George past Wynyard and Town Hall, past that chocolate place that used to be Darrell Lea but now Haig Chocky for 10 years now, past all that until I see the old site of Les Pussycats, that piece of ground diagonal from the St Andrews now buried under a pile of heavy concrete of a 30-odd storied building.
And while I’m at it I might as well sail further on to Central, Central with new train entrances galore. It’s true my mind would constantly keep a lookout for, blurry streetscapes down the years notwithstanding, an old obscure walkway besides a little side shop selling cigarettes, chewing-gums and newspapers, onto the train platforms.
Will the tram follow the old 372 bus route? What comes next? Oxford Street with busy but disorderly shops vying for a living? Anzac Parade? The huge Anzac where there was this immense nature strip enveloping a line of large fig trees (you really can’t call it just a nature strip, it’s some six seven metres wide), full of clovers co-mingled with grass. One morning, very early and very much lacking sleep, I had walked on it, keeping an eye on those little weeds, hoping to spot a four-leaved specimen to boost up my sagging luck a little. I would never have confessed to anyone then that I did that of course, and it was the only morning deep in the mid-70s that I tried the little superstition. Alas, almost a kilometre long of green but none of the precious thing.
Surely the tram would turn left into Alison, exactly like the 372 did. One side will be the Centennial Park, the other the race course. Yes, the little brochure says so. Then right into Wansey, ah this is a new route. Wansey when a friend parked her old VW on it all those years ago. But there would be so many new buildings now.
And High Street and the Uni, street number 30, 32, 34, 36 ...
I’d better catch the tram then, no point sit here sipping latte and write about things that now live only in the mind ....
Long Vo-Phuoc, December 2019
Mother’s Day 2019
Commercial days have never been to my liking. Valentine day, father’s day, spring’s day, chocolate’s day, queen’s birthday. Even bank’s holiday for girls and boys working at banks, taking a Monday’s break from picking easy fees and commissions from the public’s purses (and sometimes some carrying on dirty shenanigans, check out last year’s Australian Banking Enquiry). Heavens, what will they think of next, dog’s and cat’s day to celebrate the pampered useless pet animals? Sausage's day for the beefy? Cab sav’s day for the wide-eyed drinkers? How about petrol’s day for those who love to drive around polluting the air? Polly’s day for loud-mouthed empty politicians, typified by the ScoMos of this land (by the way the ridiculously compulsory federal vote coming up here next Saturday, sigh).
But one does get older and endure the weight of time, of memories and sentiments, does one not? This year I somehow feel more than usual the texture of the Mother’s Day. Memories of my own mother, who laughed with me and looked up at the moon when I discovered, thus proudly reported to her, that it followed me rather closely when walking back home one dark night; was it nearly sixty years ago, so long?
The continuing memories of my Valentine who's looked after her babies all the way to this day since twenty thirty odd years ago. I can never fathom the marvel that is her love to those babies (mine too).
Memories of those grandmothers who nurtured sets of neglected young children. Memories of mothers who lost their babies through poverty, war, through different forms of ill fate. I could only wish they bravely continue with life. Brave is what they are, more than all else.
I will never fathom the bounty, the depth, of a mother’s love. This note is as inadequate as it could be, my limitation in a fullest sense.
Long Vo-Phuoc, May 2019
Les Pussycats Brasserie
1
I first had a cup of coffee at the above some time in late 1975. Bathurst corner with George, the St Andrew Cathedral across the road by a thirty degree slant. Further on was the Sydney Townhall. The two structures were charming, old as this city went, all of a hundred-odd years of age. Medium-sized maples stood prettily in front. In winter, the early morning sun from the north-east shined on the bare branches, transforming the ugly office streetscape opposite into something conducive for reminiscences of things gone by.
I came back again, once twice a month, in the process depleting the near empty pockets – only pockets, no wallet. Coffee, sometimes a glass of coke, maybe a beer, once in a while a steak diane at night. Before, during and after a wandering in town. Bus to Elizabeth at the Law School, down King with the large Coles department store on the left, glanced right at the LaSalle on Castlereagh (where two years prior had the first dine-out in the city, a basement restaurant), along one-way Pitt for the Angus Robertson, noted the heavy CBA monolith at Martin Place where a bank account was opened before the basement lunch, right at Market, left onto George until Bathurst.
Afternoons, nights. Alone, those long months.
2
From mid 1975 I tended to walk aimlessly in the city centre, starting, as mentioned, from the CBD in the north (where a few years later I began earning a living) to the retail southern end. The habit of walking the streets, among people, looking up the sky. Memories sloshing in the mind, energising the legs. Memories on things years prior, and on things a few months before, a year before. A movie seen with old friend, sitting close to the screen due to late arrival, Poirot solving murder on the Orient Express - Jacqueline Bisset very lovely but never commanded attention. There was Law and Disorder later on. Disorder in the mind, in friendship, love.
In those mid-late 1975 days the future increasingly resembled a nasty construct. The past was a painful place. The present, ah, the present was so fine for an empty mind, stoned as by the first drag of tobacco in the morning. Surely the present would mutate into something as quaint, half-familiar, seductive and amusing as that brasserie further on? A new place then, so it must be safe. Safe from a memory lane at difficult corner? Is it safe. Yes it is.
Wandering, thinking (really not thinking), drifting, dropping on cushioned chair, pulling the mental mask away, seeing but not seeing.
3
Early Saturday morning in winter happened to be a favoured time. Six seven am, ordered a flat-white – latté not yet christened in town. Never mind a croissant. Lighted a cigarette, an umpteenth one since last night. It felt rather bad on the tongue, in the hollow lung, but again never mind. Sometimes one simply, lamentably, carried on with the motion of habits, because there was nothing else to do.
On one such sitting, peeled the inside lining off the packet of cigarettes, pulled it out, turned the aluminium foil over to the white paper side, smoothed out the creases, an A5 size, pulled the ball point from the pocket and started writing a note. An essay-memoir, whatever. “Thang Tu Viet Nam” - April in Viet Nam. So it must have been April 1976, but the mindscape insisted on a winter setting – as it is right now, what’s the difference, April-May or June-July-August between friends? Had the leaves only started falling and autumn showing its shape round the corner, or was the deed well done and dusted?
All very confusing, seasons, places, the viscous mind (furthermore, April in Asia would have been spring). But shall we settle on late August with a twinkle of strawberry spring in the air, when we penned things on paper?
Sipped the bistre-coloured liquid for an hour, maybe two - coffin café, and wrote. Another cuppa or a croissie would depend on the poker game overnight between mates being a success or failure; the former meant riches for a week, the latter sadly a state of straight penury until the next scholarship cheque from the department of education. An outcome between the two somehow didn’t often exist. Poison, in the form of smoke at less than a dollar for twenty, wasn’t so pricey when the world was younger than today (Ms Janis Ian said it first). Neither was the coffee pricey, as a matter of fact, but let’s not quibble on the accuracy of things economic at this point in time.
The waitresses were pretty, probably older than self. Three or four, waiting for the morning customers arriving later than usual on a Saturday. Short-sleeved red blouse, short short skirt in black, large-holed fishnet stocking, an absent-minded touch of make-up. Had I died and was reborn, this would have been 1950s’ Paris. Or 1920s 30s, whatever - things from the pages of old books. Sure I wouldn’t reincarnate in such a Francophile fashion, but there was the plush deep-red cushioned chairs, curving round one’s back half-way, the horse-shoed bench, red again, the bar with upside-down glasses, the coffee machine hissing steam, the rows of liqueur and spirit bottles. Piaf’s voice from upstairs, soon it would be Trenet, Juliette Gréco with her quais du vieux Paris. Heavens, I both like and despise Paris.
4
What would one do, in 1976? Well, one could walk the streets an early morning, winter, such as that day seen from Les Pussycats. When the sun climbed on the velvet-blue sky by the minutes. The traffic built, there were the double-decked busses that you could board up from the back corner, careful on the narrow stairs and ready to pay the conductor hanging about aimlessly among empty seats. There might have been a little breeze, chilling to the bone if the windcheater, silly misnomer thing, was lined only with thin polyester. There were few trees on the streets unlike the grand upper Anzac Parade, but any deciduous would make fun of one with its malnourished bare branches. There were ugly buildings on George, on Pitt, utility offices, tired money-losing department stores (did you read the newspaper, the money-draining Vietnam war had ended for the Yanks but oil price stayed high, stagflation reigning), small faded coloured-glass facades reflecting sunlight. There were people, to and from, there and about.
Was it fun to walk such a cityscape? Yes, no question. It was so much fun because there still were sparks in the sleep-deprived mind. When things were so low in the mind one needed a drab recessionary surround to walk into, so as to soberly remember matters of the past. A mean thing to wish for, that was true, but there it was.
Was I really there in the café, a life back, and wrote those lines of reflections for an April of a now-strange land? When the maple leaves blown across busy George, littering the pavements with withered gold on that morose day. Or were there only the bare branches of empty August 1976? How is it that I don’t have any evidence of either, on ronéo-printed pages or the original. Were these all thrown away, dust on the wayside?
5
Five and six became seven and eight. The city slowly became cosmopolitan, slowly shredding the thick layers of cultural prejudices. How many layers, one or five? Hard to fathom, sitting in this café. Because the clientele here were always eclectic, amusing. Chic as Sydney came. One afternoon when I was savouring a beer (ah, I was having a tiny bit more cash now, courtesy of some tutoring in maths at the uni. A first-year girl here, a twelfth-form boy there. A thirty-dollar-an-hour tutoring job for the uni coming up, one or two a week. The Woolloomooloo abandoned "terrace" with mates cost no rent, though neither was there hot water (had to use the uni’s showers – what can one say about the place's largesse – after regular games of squash, even though mixing squash and smoking (before and after, obviously not during) was tricky); and electricity for the lights came in fits and starts. The money rolling in, really? Well, fortnightly cheques still eagerly awaited because money was rolling out too, faster ...)
... where was I?
... ah yes, one afternoon a nice gay couple came in and sat at the next table. They were super peaceful as these guys almost always are. But this was still the 1970s so they dressed up quite deliberately colourful. Each had a huge fancy gold-lined handbag – must have been designer things, the concept quite hazy to me at least at the time. Wearing some kind of a suit, matching each other, predominantly beige with gold, green and red trimmings, or so according to memory. Somewhat older than I, looked a bit grim (in case anyone showed disapproval? But the pretty waitress was cool as ever). Ordered cocktail, studied the menu, holding each other’s hand. Nodded at them. A nod back.
Les Pussycats in the late 70s. Sitting there, it’s as if one was on a slow but resolute moving carousel. If all the world was a stage, then this might as well be the centre of it – I wouldn’t have wished it were a Paris or London, certainly not even a Sai Gon of old.
Sydney was slowly shredding its prejudices, and one might even see the ugly discarded skin laid out on the floor of Les Pussycats for those gay customers to trample on. I would too, even though really didn’t think much of that at the time. I was only happy to self-recover a little, a simple humble thing.
The future was perhaps still a foreign land, but never mind. The couple next to me, they sure didn’t seem to care so much about that either. Why should they have? They were cool, colourful, peacefully having a late lunch with cocktails while winter afternoon sunlight streaming in through glass panels. It was their moment, at peace in the café - who knew what thuggish-minded species of humanity await them round the corner afterwards.
6
Speaking of the future, things, economic things, had since progressed plenty. That corner block was such a prime piece of land that the developers wouldn’t leave it alone for long. The American Fed chap Volcker had beaten down the 1970s stagflation and even the stressful 1982 recession here had become a thing of the past. In mid 1980s property money zeroed in on mid George. The place was demolished to a pulp; as were nearby nooks and crannies.
A huge building complex was completed after a few years, thirty-storied plus, shops and whatnots. A large bunch of accountants moved in, Coopers & Lybrand. I was shocked: I hadn’t been back to visit the neighbourhood for quite some years when a friend gave me office address in early 1990s. These Coopers guys were later bought out (merged was the polite word) by the Price Waterhouse chaps, and they too all moved out. Other office workers moved in, and now they call it the HSBC building.
Hyde Park too was transformed from a romantic place where lovers sat quietly on grass gazing into each other’s eyes into a grand park with stately manicured figs, wide paved paths and fountains, all too pristine. From there I wandered back to George, standing at the spot where the door of my old Parisian café once was. Surely the Roma still remained nearby, surely ....
7
The old Roma Cinema was not much to speak of in the grand scheme of things, nothing like the silly-named Academy Twin on Oxford. The Roma was narrow, a little dark in weak yellow lights. Never too busy. But it was near the café, and it was an art-movie house. In 1976 there was Cría Cuervos where orphan children walked forlornly on the streets. In 1978 there was Madame Rosa, and I remember the steps from the Roma to the Pussycats. Were they, those steps, in a hurry because they were elated? Were they slow, because they were floating? Were they parallel but at times in tandem because of the crowd, or were they circling each other? Were they from time to time disrupted in strides because the hands, one in another, were somehow too entangled and needed a moment to breathe, to be temporarily released from each other?
Did we, any time went out to town, always have coffee there? Was there any change at the place to my eyes through the three years, three but seemed like ten. How many times for a late dinner upstairs. How many times sitting downstairs, people swirling by, men women, young old, gay straight. Fancy dress, formally suited. Whichever way.
In winter 1978, the deepest memories were at Les Pussycats when gazing at the person opposite. Who was there, sparkled in the centre of lights.
Still sparkles after all these years.
And in a deep recess of the mind, there was still the Roma, the staircase and tables and chairs and coffee and waitresses in large-holed fishnet stocking and the Parisian sounds of Les Pussycats, in 1978, yes, but also in 77, 76 and late 75, when sitting alone, thought of things that had just happened.
Long Vo-Phuoc, late August 2018
© All rights reserved.
Note on Places
Long Vo-Phuoc
Blossoms
It is now spring on this land, jade-green young leaves start to cover the aging cherry blossoms from view. But we still see the pale pink things, do we not? Behind the branches are rooms of a residence college in Neuchatel University, and further behind are trees, green park and the grey water of the lake of the same name.
I have, always, affection for these windows, these rooms (that is, of course, this kind of windows, this kind of rooms). I try to imagine the thoughts of the residents in this place, on a stormy night on the lake when the Celsius flirts with zero. What memory, what colours, what emotions.
What youth, what past, what future ...
Waterfall behind House
In my old Viet tongue, the above means “Thác Đổ Sau Nhà”, title of a famed powerful short story by Võ Phiến (1925-2015). It was written in the 1950s, when thoughtful Viet youth were torn between truculent ideals from the West, ideals not so much in print for discussion in classrooms but lived and struggled daily in unfathomed walks of life: the war between the Viet Minh and the French, between the communists and the non-aligned, between those who followed Ho Chi Minh to the jungle to fight and those who stayed back in town with the colonialists, guilt-ridden and constantly humiliated by the thugs from France, whilst at the same time despising Ho’s and his mates’ brutal and greedy practice in their quest for power ...
I feel for those youth, twenty thirty years my senior, who could not see further than a month ahead, further than a meal a mode of living a day or two away. There was almost no tunnel for them through which one could see a clarity of light no matter how slender how flimsy. Because the question one then asked each other was this, life would be a despair if Ho wins, but what kind of life is that if the French prevail?
Torn between ideals, between realities. That was the life of the protagonist of “Thác Đổ Sau Nhà”. A learned young woman, high-minded, high-spirited, but constantly ground down by the ugly social mores of the time, by tradition (a nasty word and construct), by a particularly lousy sub-species of males.
So my dear literary old young friend, this humble passage is for you. Not a rose, but a shower of light one quiet night under the Staubbach of Lauterbrunnen.
Long Vo-Phuoc, May 2018
© All rights reserved.
Stephen Hawking, 1942-2018
A life that rose well above adversity.
Obituary by Roger Penrose on the Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/science/2018/mar/14/stephen-hawking-obituary
On this International Women’s Day
No place to keep quiet
Obituary: Asma Jahangir died on February 11th
From The Economist Print Edition Feb 15th 2018:
(I am a subscriber to the newspaper’s print edition. Trust it doesn’t mind me reprinting this article here (the link is: https://www.economist.com/news/obituary/21736994-pakistans-loudest-voice-democracy-and-human-rights-was-66-obituary-asma-jahangir-died), this sublime woman who did more than any other for women, and the oppressed in general, in Pakistan.)
OBSERVERS of Asma Jahangir, usually male ones, would sometimes ask why she was so angry. From the 1980s onwards she seemed at the centre of every demonstration in Lahore or Islamabad, all five feet two inches of her, glasses glinting, gesticulating, shouting. She led marches, held marathons, set up awkward organisations, and in every way was a gadfly. Most of all, she spoke her mind. It might be in the bar room of the Lahore High Court, through a furious cloud of beedi smoke, or in court itself, dressing down judges who didn’t get the point, or at a police station, still protesting. Bemused by this fierce little lawyer, the men would shake their heads.
But in Pakistan, how could she be silent? There was so much pent-up anger, for so many reasons. Lack of democracy. Almost total lack of justice. Duffer generals, bigoted mullahs, crony capitalists, chauvinist men. Certainly she could be a well-behaved upper-middle-class woman, in elegant shalwar kameez in her wood-panelled house. But she would rather be a street fighter. Of course, she paid for it. She was bundled into police vans, put under house arrest. Her car was trashed. Hitmen held her relatives hostage. The intelligence services tried to liquidate her as a traitor and foreign agent (though her early death was natural). Every attack left her more energised than ever. When her shirt was torn off for organising a protest, she saved her modesty with safety pins and went on hectoring. Briefly in jail in 1983, she thought it a great adventure.
Her model was her father, a parliamentarian who had resigned in 1971 to protest against military rule. He too had gone smiling, and often, to prison. As a teenager she was already a troublemaker, complaining at her convent about the undemocratic selection of the head girl. In her prim school uniform, she also scaled the gate of the Punjab governor’s house to plant a black flag against military rule. Rustication followed, to her joy.
The poor and the beaten
When the phone rang at her law offices in Lahore, she would always answer it. If she missed a call, she would swiftly return it. Someone needed help, and she was often the only person in the country they could turn to. Her critics sometimes accused her of profiting from adversity, being a glory seeker. On the contrary, she was defending democracy, secularism, judicial independence, human rights. Simple tenets, but not in Pakistan. She had come to the law enchanted with it, studying it at home because she was debarred, as a woman, from lectures. She believed in its power to right wrongs. Her tartness in court expressed her fury with the slow, corrupt, uneven way it actually worked.
High-profile cases did not attract her. She preferred to defend a 14-year-old Christian boy accused of scrawling blasphemy on the wall of a village mosque, and to save him from the death penalty, which she abhorred. Though she was Muslim herself, it was a personal matter. She accepted the place of sharia in the legal system of Pakistan, but battled its harsher interpretations. In 1987 she helped set up the Human Rights Commission of Pakistan (HRCP), the first of its kind, to keep an eye on things. Her presence on the Lahore High Court and later as the first woman president of the Supreme Court Bar Association, encouraged liberal lawyers and outraged conservatives, whom she mocked for their backwardness and beards.
She was eager to represent the poor. In half her cases she took no payment. For a time she even funnelled money to struggling families of political prisoners and abductees. Once she fought for a group of half-naked bonded brickmakers, who owed thousands of rupees to their employers. When the judge asked her why she had brought people into his court who stank, she replied, bluntly, that he was there precisely for them. Ideally, to weaken the feudal system that enslaved them. At the least, to listen to the victims.
And no group was victimised more than women. They were treated as possessions in Pakistan, beings who should not question and should not think. She knew about that. As a young mother, even with a law degree, she had been forbidden to work and reduced to a nothing. So in 1980 she, her sister Hina and two friends set up the first all-woman law firm in the country. Her husband objected, but she went ahead. The year before President Zia ul-Haq had brought in military rule and severe hudood punishments, so her firm was needed. She defended girls, raped by their bosses, who now faced flogging for fornication; she helped women trying to escape loveless marriages, one of whom was killed in her law offices at her mother’s instigation. She provided a shelter for them, again the first. By this year she felt women had made progress. But not nearly enough.
With so much energy and noise, she was noticed internationally. She became a UN special rapporteur for human rights, travelling to Iran, Afghanistan, Palestine and Chiapas. All the cases she encountered caused her anguish, but her chief concern remained Pakistan. For all the danger to her, she had never thought of leaving. Her ancestors were buried there. It was home. And like the typical Punjabi mother she was, nagging her daughters on how they should keep house, she needed to lecture Pakistan first. And keep on. And on.
Dusk
Halloween on KIT University, Southern Campus, Karlsruhe. A carpet of leaves round a corner of the eye. A sparkle of streetlight plays tricks on the mind.
Persistent creature, memory.
Long Vo-Phuoc. Nov 2017
From Cosmic Thingy to “Survey” on Basic Human Rights
Let’s do an update on gravitational waves, shall we – the fourth time detected since less than two years ago. This baby was (still is?) some 1.8 billion light years from earth, give or take presumably a few hundred million light years – no great distance between friends:
https://www.theatlantic.com/science/archive/2017/09/gravitational-waves-black-holes/541293/
Anyway, enough of such mundanes. Let me now pay attention to this silly government survey on same-sex marriage equality. Wow, what a crappy way of wasting taxpayers’ money (that is, my money too)! Low wimpish politicians try every which way to avoid doing their little job, causing community divisiveness in the same nauseating breath.
Long Vo-Phuoc, September 2017
Many Cheers
International Women's Day
Report from Kirstie Brewer, Reykjavik, for the BBC (http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-34602822), 23 Oct 2015:
When Ronald Reagan became the US President, one small boy in Iceland was outraged. "He can't be a president - he's a man!" he exclaimed to his mother when he saw the news on the television.
It was November 1980, and Vigdis Finnbogadottir, a divorced single mother, had won Iceland's presidency that summer. The boy didn't know it, but Vigdis (all Icelanders go by their first name) was Europe's first female president, and the first woman in the world to be democratically elected as a head of state.
Many more Icelandic children may well have grown up assuming that being president was a woman's job, as Vigdis went on to hold the position for 16 years - years that set Iceland on course to become known as "the world's most feminist country".
(Note: There was an inaccuracy in the above report: Sirimavo Bandaranaike was democratically elected as prime minister and head of government of Ceylon/Sri Lanka in 1960 (the presidency office was established since only 1972); as was Golda Meir of Israel in 1969. There were also other early woman political heads of state in the 20th century, whether elected, "inherited" (from the husband's position, for example) or by different means. Nevertheless the positive sentiment of Kirstie Brewer's article is the main point here, and I like that very much. LVP)
An Ochna for Huế
Long Vo-Phuoc
Any time Tết comes I think of Huế.
It was 1961 when I left her the first time, a little boy, on an overnight train. No impression left in the mind except that it was a long journey with parents and tiny siblings. And luggage. I must have slept the whole night.
That happened to be the last time I was on a train in Việt Nam. Soon after that war came. Mines were placed under the tracks by the communists. One after another the trains were destroyed. Civilians lost their lives (and yes, one must always be fair in these matters, civilians lost their lives too because of bombs from the ground and from the sky during full-blown war thereafter, many civilians). Train schedules were cancelled altogether. Much later, in the late 60s and early 70s there were a few slow ones out of Sài Gòn that I saw but never boarded – these were only short-distanced trips to safe areas near the capital, and even that they ran off and on.
But I digress plenty.
I went back to live in Huế again in 1964 – certain things happened fast and bewilderingly those few years. This time I was on a plane with an old lady, our wizened grandmother whom we, kid sisters and I, called Mệ. A two-day bus trip was considered too difficult for the small entourage so air tickets were generously bought this time round. The propellers roared, and a sister had to use cotton balls for her ears. She might or might not have cried. A wizened old man was waiting for us at home, our grandfather whom we called Ôn.
I had two Tếts in Huế from 1964. The ones before 61, alas, well skipped the mind.
A week before that first Tết Ôn bought a good-sized ochna branch from the Đông Ba New Year market. The market sat next to a Huế citadel gate of the same name, quite a way from our house. He brought it back rather awkwardly on his bicycle, a distance of two kilometers, first riding through the Đông Ba gate then meandering the streets inside the citadel under the now deep green jacarandas and large figs. He then stopped at the beginning of our lane, dismounted, laid the branch on the seat and the steering bar, one hand held the branch, one hand grabbed the bar, and with the whole assemble walked uphill for some two hundred meters, a rather mean narrow rock and dirt lane gutted in the middle by torrential rain.
All the way up to our house, at the top of the citadel. Unlike many metropolises of the twenty-first century, here the higher one lived inside the citadel the less desirable the houses, because access to the main road from up there was a real chore. One could not ride a bicycle up or down easily, and a dangerous affair to walk when monsoon came.
The branch was a little taller than he was, the trunk some five centimeters in diameter. It was bare of leaves, but there were the promises of buds. It was freshly chopped from a big ochna bush. That is, a big Mai bush.
One week to Tết’s Eve, Giao-Thừa.
This was what he did next. He had a large brass vase ready, filled carefully with water (water, by the way, was a precious commodity, because it had to be transported from the public fountain in the primary school, my school, first along the road, then up up the lane. A strong man could carry two standard 30-kg (I think) drums, one at each end of a bamboo pole, using his shoulder as fulcrum. Otherwise two enterprising teenage boys or girls could carry on shoulder both ends a similar pole with a drum hanging in the middle. Don’t spill, or there’d be no pay. Expensive labour, for us that was, the old people and the very young children).
Ôn then burnt the stump’s end. This was an art he told me. You burn too much, you ruin the thing. You burn more than enough the buds and thus flowers come out before the New Year Day. You burn too little and we’ll celebrate New Year on the fifth day, the tenth day next year. So be careful.
I nodded, said yes sir, and he burnt it, using his cigarette lighter, an old Zippo perhaps.
He placed the branch inside the brass vase, adding a rock or two to stabilise it. In the corner near the main door it would sit for ten days or so. It took up room, so we had to make do a little, walked around it. But this was Tết, you wouldn’t quibble about the Mais.
Did I say that the more Mais opening on New Year Day the more luck you have for the whole year? Well we had flowers on the Eve when he recited Buddha’s words, knelt in front of the small altar, to see off the Old and usher in the New. He could read Chinese, and he was familiar with those heavy Buddhist tomes, in Vietnamese with Sanskrit passages in literal phonetic Vietnamese. He dressed formally for the session, put glasses on, surrounding himself with kerosene lamp, texts, prayer instruments - the wooden tocsin, the brass bell. I was permitted to kneel behind him.
He was quite a learned man, a retired public servant, clean in conduct and poor in money, still a busy man, now a part-time traditional musician. The next year he would try, without success, his chance at the election for the city’s mayoral council ...
This was how it sounded to me in between his monotonous chanting, that New Year’s Eve. Booock booock boock .... Boooong. 11 pm. Booock boooock boooock boooock boooock booock booock.... Boooong Boooong Boooong. Midnight. And so on till I fell asleep.
The next Tết he wasn’t well, so we had a much smaller affair for a Mai branch. But Mệ did something special. She made traditional rice cakes. First she paid a young chap to chop a few banana trees from the bush just outside the house. She then collected the fresh large banana leaves (the chap might have grabbed for himself the plants’ core where new leaves grew from. I heard it would be good to eat but never had an opportunity). She laid out the best of sticky rice, the nicest sort of mung beans, the most succulent of pork. She might have saved or bought these from previously, but the pork certainly that same day. We must have been lucky the last year from Ôn's income playing his Đàn Nhị, a complex Vietnamese violin, not just my father’s remittances.
She cooked the ingredients prior, lightly perhaps, in the kitchen. She then wrapped them up by layers upon layers of banana leaves. There were the vegetarian ones, there were the ones for the continuing sinners. Then she tied each cake with bamboo strings, hard, hard. Those large green cylinders of lovely new-year food.
My little sisters and I were a bit of a nuisance so she told us to clear off.
My aunt, her daughter, gave her a hand sporadically. Otherwise it’s all her work, that feisty old lady. She got a big oil drum, rented from someone who cleaned it up long ago for the purpose. She gathered firewood and charcoal. She set up a great stove out in the open, rocks and all. She filled the drum with precious water, with even more precious new-year cakes. She boiled the whole outfit. Smoke at first was everywhere in the tiny front yard from which one could see the old moat’s green water twenty meters below and away. Then the fire became stronger, hotter. Night came. More charcoal. Water was added – have to keep watch on the expenses next month, next year, she said.
She was really a feisty old lady. A woman hard-working well into her old age. A loving mother to my father, her youngest. A loyal self-sacrificing wife to Ôn. A wonderful Mệ to us little kids - that is, when she didn’t happen to criticize my mother. She looked after us on and off for donkey years thereafter.
The hours kept coming. The temperature fell. Soon it would be midnight. Sounds of crackers from the better-off areas. Ôn would still recite the Buddha’s words tonight, feeling well or not. Mệ would start to put out the fire, drain the drum, gather the cakes, store them in pots, clear the stove.
I fell asleep just after midnight, knowing full well that I would be up by seven in the morning, the first day of spring. Mệ would open the door by then. I would quickly put on some decent clothes, would hurriedly step out of the house. Would walk up the ancient guard watch lookout, would see the moat in the weak morning light. Rows of houses and buildings on the other side blocked the view of the river but the sky would still be up there, above tiresome human artifacts. I would look up at the young young spring sky, it wouldn’t matter if there was rain. It would be Tết after all.
So here is an ochna for Huế. A Mai for Huế, for Ôn and Mệ, peace on the other side. From one who once was very young.
Long Vo-Phuoc, Jan 2017
© All rights reserved.
(Photo taken by better-half)
(excerpts below from 1975 notebook)
Ăn Tết Bằng Ý-Tưởng
Vo-Phuoc Long, 1975
Đã lâu lắm tôi mới cầm bút viết hoa chữ Tết. Nắn nót, tỉ mĩ, như cậu học-trò cắp sách lần đầu đến ngôi trường mới. Một buổi sáng cuối tháng Tám ở Huế. Mùa hè còn đọng trên những cây phượng đỏ ối, trên những cây sầu đâu lá xanh um. Hoa phượng rụng la liệt trên đất. Những trái sầu đâu ruc-rịch chuyển từ mầu xanh sang nâu.
,,,,,,,
Tại sao ý-nghĩ đầu tiên về Huế, nó lại lang-thang chạy đua với ngày tựu trường sau mùa Hè. Tại sao ý nghĩ thứ hai, thật là lạ lùng, lai-rai với mùa xuân khi trời mưa riêu-riêu ngoài kia cực-kỳ thơ mộng? Buổi sáng mồng một, hai mươi mốt phát đại-bát vang-vang tả hữu ngạn. Pháo đã trải nệm đường-xá từ hăm sáu hăm lăm. Và thế đã là Tết hay sao? Đã là Tết đến thăm tâm-hồn?
......
(I once had a close friend in Nha Trang who spoke, so many years ago, with her own loveliest accent of Huế because her family too came from the place, because her gentle soul and beauty came from the flora and fauna of the place. She still speaks the same way, occasionally these days, in my mind – peace be with her always on the other side. LVP, 2017.)
Long Vo-Phuoc
© All rights reserved.
Big
Long Vo-Phuoc
The Economist reported well on the momentous evidence:
Two black holes circle one another. Both are about 100km across. One contains 36 times as much mass as the sun; the other, 29. They are locked in an orbital dance, a kilometre or so apart, that is accelerating rapidly to within a whisker of the speed of light. Their event horizons—the spheres defining their points-of-no-return—touch. There is a violent wobble as, for an instant, quintillions upon quintillions of kilograms redistribute themselves. Then there is calm. In under a second, a larger black hole has been born.
It is, however, a hole that is less than the sum of its parts. Three suns’ worth of mass has been turned into energy, in the form of gravitational waves: travelling ripples that stretch and compress space, and thereby all in their path. During the merger’s final fifth of a second, envisaged in an artist’s impression above, the coalescing holes pumped 50 times more energy into space this way than the whole of the rest of the universe emitted in light, radio waves, X-rays and gamma rays combined.
And then, 1.3 billion years later, in September 2015, on a small planet orbiting an unregarded yellow sun, at facilities known to the planet’s inhabitants as the Advanced Laser Interferometer Gravitational-wave Observatory (LIGO), the faintest slice of those waves was caught. That slice, called GW150914 by LIGO’s masters and announced to the world on February 11th, is the first gravitational wave to be detected directly by human scientists. It is a triumph that has been a century in the making, opening a new window onto the universe and giving researchers a means to peer at hitherto inaccessible happenings, perhaps as far back in time as the Big Bang.
(13-19/2/2016, print edition, pp. 73-74)
Were there a planet near the pair (marginally possible until burnt away), an unlikely life existing prior on it would have been torn apart well before the event. Assuming, of course, that earth’s standard of biology and physics applies under such condition.
But it would be fun living there, seeing heavenly chaos in the sky.
36 and 29 times the size of the sun are seriously big even for black holes. Sirius A, the brightest star by naked eyes, is twice the mass of Sol, our big Sol. For a while one calculated that the mass of a star could not be larger than 150 times or so of Sol, because nuclear activities would prevent it from existing in the first place. And 150 here is an insane number (as are the ones above).
Then one discovered, recently, R136a1 in a neighbour galaxy, and for now it’s the biggest single creature out there, at 315 times (last estimated, previously it was 265) the mass of Sol. Good heavens, no pun, what comes on next?
The star, by the way, has the truest, loveliest hue of blue. True blue, yes.
Imagine if life exists in its vicinity (again unlikely, but who knows) at a far enough distance, how would one feel looking up the sky? There would be no night as earthlings know of - the region packed with stars only a little lesser in stature. Photosynthesis (or whatever it could be there, conditions allowing) may run amok in full glory, non-stop, every “day”. What a life, even if it’s only two million years short before R136a1 becomes a super-supernova, but who quibbles between love-struck star gazers?
Big stuffs happening out there.
Long Vo-Phuoc, March’s end, 2016
A 1909 Love Story: Marthe Bibesco & Wilhelm von Hohenzollern
Long Vo-Phuoc
In 1909 Crown Prince Wilhelm (1882-1951) of the German Empire was deeply in love with the famed Romanian-French writer Marthe Bibesco (“Martha Bibescu ”, 1886-1973) – she herself a princess by birth from the Romanian kingdom.
He was young, married, rather impressionable. His belligerent father Wilhelm II was for decades the most powerful, and not well liked, figure of Europe and thus the world until his Empire was defeated in 1918. Had that not been the case the crown prince, Wilhelm also, would have succeeded the throne amid a what-if European landscape different from today. The father was hard on the son, a matter of expectation in the highest of courts. The son tried to prove himself in military training, in sports (yachting, hunting, tennis ...), in nuances of diplomacy, in mannerism among statesmen – not tremendously excelled in any particular pursuit. By and large, he was a nice chap. Of slim features, he was not quite so elegant among fashionable high-brows, not quite at ease with the world of power, and always conscious of his obligations. He was somewhat fluent in basic English, perhaps a little less so in French.
He was certainly romantic and, with the right person, passionate.
She was an exceptional young woman. At 23 she was already a “darling” in high societies of Europe – Bucharest, sure, but also Berlin, London and, especially, Paris. She was beautiful by all standards of the time. She moved easily through the coveted salons and diplomatic circles. Counts, princes and kings, not least generals prime ministers and presidents, all clamoured to be her friends, to whatever extent in their dream. This was despite the fact that she was married early, reasonably happily one must note, to a highly regarded Romanian prince. And sure, she accepted their friendship – with genuine or calculated feelings, one could only try to fathom. At times she acted as a go-between among power brokers for affairs of state. She was sometimes spoken of as “the nymph of Europe” (the term unfair in my view, even though she did refer that to herself in reminiscence later in life. If anything, she was the continent's First Lady for more than fifty tumultuous years).
But above all, above all those remarkable accomplishments for a young woman a hundred years ago, she was a fabulous writer. Her celebrated travel memoir Les Huit Paradis, published in 1908, covered in depth a place as faraway as Persia. She wrote for literary journals of the time, novels and non-fiction, almost all in French (and she could go by reasonably well in English). She lived in Paris and became the toast of the capital prior to World War I (and afterwards remained always a much loved dame and then grand dame of Europe. Maxim Gorky was an early mentor (1905), Marcel Proust adored her, Alfonso of Spain, de Gaulle from France, Churchill, MacDonald from Britain; all smitten with her. Correspondence, personal and more, from these and dozens others began to pile up ...).
Young Wilhelm met Marthe in April 1909, and was thoroughly shaken. He was older than her by a few years (calling her “my little princess” in numerous letters and telegrams) but one has the feeling when going through his passionate notes that he worshipped her: she was so much more worldly, more accomplished, more talented, more of a natural achiever in life, than he. What was not to like about her?
Wilhelm wanted to better himself and, if and when the time came (it didn’t), to better Germany and Europe, though frankly he was too prejudiced and unimaginative for the goal. In contrast to his father he was not a warmonger (and perhaps Wilhelm II was not quite such a one either despite the way chauvinistic English and French official documents and lazy historians tried to so make out. Remember that even young European intellectuals in 1914 were themselves fervently patriotic (Virginia Woolf and her circle among the rare exceptions), fools all – poets, say, eagerly left home to die at war: French British Germans Austrians Russians ... The more things change...). He was somewhat idealistic, not too talented, faults a plenty - not faithful to his wife was one - but he would try to do the right thing given the circumstances. By and large, he is uninteresting if not for the fact that he was the German Crown Prince.
But Marthe remained the one one would be fascinated about. Britain and France wanted to work with her during the Great War despite (or because of) her friendship with Wilhelm. After 1918 she continued to write and to be admired. She travelled – the Ritz was her home in London. She didn’t like what Europe turned out to be with the like of Hitler, Mussolini, Franco, Stalin ... and how Romania was gradually sucked into the Nazi orbit, Stalin’s menace from the North notwithstanding. After World War II, she must have felt disappointed further with humanity, being exiled in all but name from the newly minted communist Romania. There were family tragedies. Writing now her living means, she became a member of the Belgian Academy of French Literature in 1955. She lived long and at the end donated all manuscripts and personal correspondence, hundred of boxes, to, surprisingly, the University of Texas in the US. All, that is, apart from Wilhelm’s 1909 letters and telegrams. These were “acquired” from her by the French government following war outbreak in 1914; auctioned in 2011 from its archive to the public; and have since remained in private possession – changing hands now and then.
He wrote to her in English, in pencil (for state security reasons?), in a style simple but full of longing. From his letters one can see that she was kind, supremely lovely and intelligent, interested in his friendship but somewhat wary – because of whom he was? In a major empire celebration in 1909 Berlin she was sharing the royal carriage with him, an extraordinary honour for a lady foreigner who was not the crown prince’s wife.
He was not a serious reader but treasured her books anyway. In June the same year her book won a prize in Paris and he sent her a telegram describing that “each tree spoke books” everywhere that day.
They lost contact from 1914. In 1933 Wilhelm was able to contact Marthe again after many attempts in vain. Years later still, Marthe wrote two reminiscence notes – in London, using the Ritz stationery both occasions. She still called him Wilhelm III even though he was never German Kaiser.
Here are my photo of the first, 1909, and of the last, 1933, letter, both from Wilhelm. On the second, note the marks of time on the hand-writing and the absence of his old palace’s emblem. The June 1909 telegram as mentioned above.
And photo of a note by Marthe. No 1909 letter from her to him survives - because he had destroyed them for a variety of reasons: war, privacy (his own protection of her?)? Or are they still in his descendants’ estate? How glad would I be to have just one specimen ...
The painting of Marthe was by Giovanni Boldini, 1911. The private photo of Wilhelm was never published prior.
Economic trends and war consequences often make us forgetful of past significance. Following the 1914-18 war many references (street names, public places, etc.) to Alexander von Humboldt, a German, were pettily erased in the US even though he was the foremost scientist and liberal thinker of the 18th and 19th centuries, and one who once did a great favour to the young country*. And in today’s US-centric world one may easily stay ignorant of a splendoured life such as that of Marthe Bibesco, an outstanding writer and a woman of sublime substance the century just past.
Long Vo-Phuoc, February 2016
Note: * by teaching US public servants, from Thomas Jefferson down, the political and socio-economic structure, in addition to unique scientific understanding, of Latin America and in particular Mexico (all of which apart from Brazil was under the dominion of Spanish colonialists at the time). This knowledge proved valuable later on to the US in its various wars against first independent Mexico then Spain. See Chap. 8, The Invention of Nature, Andrea Wulf, 2015.
LVP
© All rights reserved.
Ten Thousand Galaxies
"Every speck of light here is a galaxy". Image and commentary by NASA, via Hubble:
“This view of nearly 10,000 galaxies is the deepest visible-light image of the cosmos. Called the Hubble Ultra Deep Field, this galaxy-studded view represents a "deep" core sample of the universe, cutting across billions of light-years. The smallest, reddest galaxies may be among the most distant known, existing when the universe was just 800 million years old. The nearest galaxies - the larger, brighter, well-defined spirals and ellipticals - thrived about 1 billion years ago, when the cosmos was 13 billion years old. The image required 800 exposures taken over the course of 400 Hubble orbits around Earth. The total amount of exposure time was 11.3 days, taken between Sept. 24, 2003 and Jan. 16, 2004.”
Feisty Tiger
Long Vo-Phuoc
Was the tiger in the image below really that feisty and excitable?
This is a hand-coloured lithograph from one of the 40 volumes of “The Naturalist’s Library” by William Jardine, printed 1848, on fauna of the world. The work had a good coverage on the East with large Asian animals featured often, in particular tigers and elephants.
The Bengal tiger depicted here must have been quite hungry considering the paramount risk it took. Three Indians, with a spear or two, and an English chap armed with a rifle - the latter of course unfamiliar to the animal but the spears surely weren’t. And the distressed elephant too had to be reckoned with.
The tiger was huge, look at its size relative to the four humans (and for that matter the elephant was super bulky, legs the width of Greek columns). Absent was the calculating and risk-averse nature of the beast. Instead, the tiger charged, or rather, grabbed and climbed (hard work), all the way up for a few hopeful but likely not tasty morsels of human flesh and, while we’re at it, might as well devour the elephant for good measure!
So I suppose the whole vivid scene must have happened solely in the mind of the author/illustrator. It’s more the case that the Englishman here was on a hunting trip to shoot tigers at peace from the safety of his seat high in the air.
Quite a “pleasant” drawing though artistically perhaps not the finest of its kind. Images like this were abound in illustrated books on the Orient those centuries.
The Indochinese tiger, by the way, was - is - slightly smaller than its Bengal cousin.
Long Vo-Phuoc, Sep 2015.
Anne Sexton: “Some Foreign Letters” and lives from rearview mirror
Long Vo-Phuoc
The Christmas just past my daughter gave me a bunch of 1950s postcards. These were sent mostly from central Europe – travelers keeping family and friends in touch. She gave them to me because I collected snippets of life on paper: postcards, letters, covers, books; the older the better.
One day late 1950s Anne Sexton happened to come across similar things, albeit from her aunt instead of strangers and with the weight of another sixty seventy years on postmarks and datelines; and wrote “Some Foreign Letters”. The result was an immensely evocative work of art, full of longing by a literary intellectual for the past. It’s not important at all if that past had nothing to do with where you live or were born, nothing to do with faces you see in dreams or daily reality, with colours from own childhood memory or harsh reflection of present living. The past exists between us all, where events had come and gone, lives lived and spent, splendour of cities constructed and destroyed and floating bridges meandered over troubled water. The past, with its own achievements, gross or fine, its own gun powder for war, monuments juvenile and paradise lost, is "a foreign country", where, of course, "they do things differently”*.
Poets naturally do not have to be historians, but that would help. Isn't the poet meant to be soothsayer of truth and seer of future? The poet tells truths with an open soul and sees humanity without the propaganda of the age, and thus would welcome some benefit of hindsight.
But if such a poet, one day, tired of the mundane of mind and form, does not see the point of going on? Should one then simply re-live lives of others in the rearview mirror – distorted, sure, but aren't the colours still there, the emotions raw as always, the damages supine, defeats and victories empty and grotesque, innovations abused and decayed (and art and love – do these really survive?)?
Perhaps that sentiment belongs only to a pessimist: Anne Sexton never denied she was anything other than one. Her works are, for the most part, brilliant in a wild and tumultuous corner of the mind, intensely personal, cutting. Those are justifiably treasured by many, severely disliked by some others – mostly narrow-minded little men. But early in a powerful but short career she produced the following lines. There cannot be any criticism here. The words shined with an inner understanding of lives and scenes that had extinguished; the punctuation and breaks graceful yet precise; the paragraphs powerfully structured yet never camouflaging the sensitive soul (deliberately self-misrepresented under a different guise) of the poet.
Those words and lines together bring to mind an overwhelming presence of an age that forces one, almost, to leave this existence and go back, go back ...
My dear Anne Sexton, may art, and art only, illuminate always the life you disavowed at the end. Peace be with you.
Long Vo-Phuoc, Mar 2015
© All rights reserved.
Notes:
*: The Go-Between, L P Hartley.
Anne Sexton, 1928-1974: US prominent poet, Pulitzer 1967.
Some Foreign Letters
Anne Sexton
I knew you forever and you were always old,
soft white lady of my heart. Surely you would scold
me for sitting up late, reading your letters,
as if these foreign postmarks were meant for me.
You posted them first in London, wearing furs
and a new dress in the winter of eighteen-ninety.
I read how London is dull on Lord Mayor's Day,
where you guided past groups of robbers, the sad holes
of Whitechapel, clutching your pocketbook, on the way
to Jack the Ripper dissecting his famous bones.
This Wednesday in Berlin, you say, you will
go to a bazaar at Bismarck's house. And I
see you as a young girl in a good world still,
writing three generations before mine. I try
to reach into your page and breathe it back...
but life is a trick, life is a kitten in a sack.
This is the sack of time your death vacates.
How distant you are on your nickel-plated skates
in the skating park in Berlin, gliding past
me with your Count, while a military band
plays a Strauss waltz. I loved you last,
a pleated old lady with a crooked hand.
Once you read Lohengrin and every goose
hung high while you practiced castle life
in Hanover. Tonight your letters reduce
history to a guess. The Count had a wife.
You were the old maid aunt who lived with us.
Tonight I read how the winter howled around
the towers of Schloss Schwöebber, how the tedious
language grew in your jaw, how you loved the sound
of the music of the rats tapping on the stone
floors. When you were mine you wore an earphone.
This is Wednesday, May 9th, near Lucerne,
Switzerland, sixty-nine years ago. I learn
your first climb up Mount San Salvatore;
this is the rocky path, the hole in your shoes,
the yankee girl, the iron interior
of her sweet body. You let the Count choose
your next climb. You went together, armed
with alpine stocks, with ham sandwiches
and seltzer wasser. You were not alarmed
by the thick woods of briars and bushes,
nor the rugged cliff, nor the first vertigo
up over Lake Lucerne. The Count sweated
with his coat off as you waded through top snow.
He held your hand and kissed you. You rattled
down on the train to catch a steamboat for home;
or other postmarks: Paris, Verona, Rome.
This is Italy. You learn its mother tongue.
I read how you walked on the Palatine among
the ruins of the palaces of the Caesars;
alone in the Roman autumn, alone since July.
When you were mine they wrapped you out of here
with your best hat over your face. I cried
because I was seventeen. I am older now.
I read how your student ticket admitted you
into the private chapel of the Vatican and how
you cheered with the others, as we used to do
on the Fourth of July. One Wednesday in November
you watched a balloon, painted like a silver ball,
float up over the Forum, up over the lost emperors,
to shiver its little modern cage in an occasional
breeze. You worked your New England conscience out
beside artisans, chestnut vendors and the devout.
Tonight I will learn to love you twice;
learn your first days, you mid-Victorian face.
Tonight I will speak up and interrupt
your letters, warning you that wars are coming,
that the Count will die, that you will accept
your America back to live like a prim thing
on the farm in Maine. I tell you, you will come
here, to the suburbs of Boston, to see the blue-nose
world go drunk each night, to see the handsome
children jitterbug, to feel your left ear close
one Friday at Symphony. And I tell you,
you will tip your boot feet out of that hall,
rocking from its sour sound, out onto
the crowded street, letting your spectacles fall
and your hair net tangle as you stop passers-by
to mumble your guilty love while your ears die.
Anne Sexton, 1959
MilkyWay
Cruelty has a Human Heart
And Jealousy a Human Face
Terror the Human Form Divine
And Secrecy, the Human Dress
(A Divine Image - William Blake, cir. 1791)