Tram
I miss traveling. One year absentia, no problem. Two years, well, I do have books to read, paperwork to catch up, and conundrums to ponder on the market, liquidity and supply bottlenecks – and not to forget the poor in Africa, who, in between wars and unrests and institutional corruption, couldn’t even have a look-in to anything the last two years, depressing as it always is.
Now the time has gone on to three years, and there is still simply no “there” (as in, here and there), at all for practical reasons. I miss it, what can I say, never mind books and paperwork and a large home renovation and statistics and old and new theories and evidences and tiresome algorithms. Never mind. I simply miss the there.
The only thing I can do now is to reminisce a little. Let’s speak short-term short-term. No point going back 50 years and feel, calling a spade a spade, depressed over old stuffs. Let’s talk three, four, five years for now. What does one miss?
Well, a tram is right on top of the list. A tram that carries one from A to B, in a different city, a different land. It’s crawlingly slow by nature, not wanting to run over anyone, any bicycle. It sounds a moderate ding when someone gets too close at the front, a few metres say. The seat is small, in vinyl blue, rows of two by two separated by a narrow walkway in the centre. Big space to stand at the back of a carriage, four altogether, holding on to each other’s waist, tagging and snaking along the steel tracks of the city, powered by the complicated wiring above. A hundred year-old service, give or take.
Where does one go with it? Ah, one can do a trip from the Central Station (having earlier started on a different tram from the Opera stop at the head of the lake, then changes here), to Hardturmstrasse where one picks up a book and a small present. The book? Sports et Divertissements, Paris, 1923. Quite a nice gift for an anniversary.
The to-trip is at lunch time, busy busy, lots of dings along the tracks courtesy of recalcitrant pedestrians – a schoolgirl hurrying to get her lunch, same with a banker and mates, an old woman in her eighties crossing the track for her shopping, et cetera. A dozen stops, so one sees a flurry of faces, dresses, suits, jackets, jeans. Spring-time you see, it’s cool – as in temperature.
But things take time at Hardturmstrasse, so it’s three when one takes the tram back, meandering through the half-industrial half-office district. One sees a Thai restaurant in a corner, a low-key affair, with the name board faded from the sun. A café here and there, not meant to be anything flashy, a stop where workers and students get off for trains going elsewhere, bicycles by the hundreds on an asphalt strip under trees.
This tram is meant to go a little further than the Central Station, so one says to his companion, his beloved really, let’s go on to the city and have a late lunch, or at least some cake and coffee. In his vision there is a nice cheese cake in an atmospheric place. He would be disappointed as to the quality of the cake or the architectural style of the café, but at least the latte is alright. She would have a salad and tea – and happy enough with them.
You see, they have known each other for more than forty years. They got married quite a while ago. Heavens, it’s a ruby anniversary. Contrary to popular perception about old-time couples these two do have things to chat about, inconsequential things perhaps. Weather, breakfast, personnel in hotel, tram map, train map, plan for tomorrow, is this trip different from the last or not, the children, the market, Trump utterances (amidst big USoA flag-waving), Morrison utterances (amidst very skeptical journalists), sensible yet courageous Merkel opinions, perceptive yet clever Ardern reactions, Charles Martin, Erik Satie, and suddenly (but appropriately because of the anniversary thing), “what made you make that phone call in 1978”, and, “what about that letter later on”?
So on and so forth, as I say, inconsequential things, some maybe not but mostly inconsequential. Yet they keep on chatting, stop after stop, on and on. Still do after all these years, somehow.
The conductor and his heavy iron machine pass Central Station, cross an intricate section with tracks and electrical wire and traffic lights and cars and people. He reaches a stop, then another, the remaining passengers, most remaining passengers, get off. Then he makes a soft announcement into the speaker-phone. In German. He waits, to no effect. He probably sighs. Then he trundles on.
Then he stops, getting out of the cubby seat, and makes one final public announcement for the trip. In English. Tram depot, Tram depot. In his mind: old weirdo lovebirds – in his own tone you understand.
The old couple stop chatting, finding themselves sitting alone in the tram. Sister trams all around. Look on, say, wow, it’s at the back of a city street, but it’s quiet here. A tram depot, no kidding. Look at each other, better stop carrying on for now, let’s go somewhere for lunch.
Thus that was the there, three years back. Time flies, in more ways than one.
Long Vo-Phuoc, Jan 2022.
Valley and Forest of the Grindel Elves
Long Vo-Phuoc
The path meandered from the town centre to the valley, weaving between homes, gardens, small boulders, slender sign posts. Town was a tiny place, a rather expensive outpost for hikers and skiers who were now absent, this being an in-between season. Spring is chancy time here, the clouds could build up at any time bringing rain, the early morning air cutting through skin no matter how many layers of fabric. The snowline had moved further into the upper rocky part of the mountains, turning gentler slopes into green expanse. But let’s never mind the tricky weather, there might soon be some unexpected pockets of blue in the sky, mightn't there? The wild flowers were fresh and enticing, the grass the brightest shade of green, so bright it hurt the eyes. Above all, there was hardly anyone. So what’s to complain?
Hardly anyone, isn’t it a state of exuberance one would pay a fortune to acquire (as, say, 9am inside the Louvre a Wednesday morning, worth a thousand times the 4pm)? Now when the fortune wasn’t particularly sought, well then, off one went.
It was a little steep on the way down, stone steps scattering the smooth well-trodden asphalt trail. The young lady kindly offered a detailed plan for things to do – here is the UN heritage-listed mountain, a must go, give yourself four five hours (that’s all? how about the remaining life for the torture?), here is a special out-of-the-way museum of ... (of what I forget, no kidding, didn’t get anywhere near it), nein nein it’s not free (eyes hugely amused), nothing like that is free here, and this here is a waterway, glacial water, the flow is nice at this time, running hard and white with bubbles, oh, I almost forgot (said she, not we), this is the valley centre, you might want to go there first, ah yes, this path here is good to get there, sehr gut, leading straight to it. Ja, sehr gut, the valley.
Not a bad map, full of useful facts, richly detailed, nice colouring, nice small fonts, typical Swiss thoroughness and efficiency (always giving good net value for money, Swiss things, high-priced as they may appear in the first place), and yes, the map was free. You would pay a fair note or two for a sloppy version of a similar thing in an authoritarian and bureaucratic user-pay state (large-small poor-rich east-west north-south, why quibble among the heavy-handed) elsewhere.
(Now now, this is a travel narrative, one sprinkled with affection throughout, not a comparison treatise of world economic values, much less a note whereby one makes enquiry on political thugs around the world. So let’s move on, shall we?)
Where were we, ah yes, the path. Well it was steep, between well-kept small houses (reminding me of an unusual street in Sai Gon a thousand years ago), so we said to each other, let’s enjoy the moment darling, because when we go back up, this way or another, we shall well huff and puff all the way. This kind of complaints really was lamentable, because it showed our age and the relative unfit station in autumnal life. Yet there was an affectionate intonation among the grumpy words - for a die-hard romantic. So yes, we carried on down whilst mumbling such sweet nothing even though, in truth, I did keep an eye out for a crooked treacherous step here and there, ready to offer my hand, ready to grab her arm, just in case ...
Then almost suddenly we were out into the dazzling open.
The meadow was vast, bright emerald-green (a colour almost similar to that of young rice paddies in the Far-East, but the texture of the air was the opposite), covered everywhere by tiny wild flowers, yellow mostly, but red and white too, and a hundred shades of pink, a hundred shades of violet, a thousand of those in between. A tremendous carpet of colours, shamelessly showing off, belligerently putting down the best of van Gogh’s wheat fields. We were stunned, and if anyone had to charge me the earth for that moment, then the earth I shall find. The carpet stretched a kilometre from here to the little river beyond, and another kilo further on the other side. To the left and right, five seven kilometres each way. Hardly anything intruded the eyes, a hamlet here and there, simple abodes dotted on the hill, timber and slate roof, and that’s about all.
What was beyond the meadows? Mountains of course, peaks and all. The mountains formed an uninterrupted ring, high, snow at the top, then white intermingling with rock and the deep green of conifers. The little town now became a wedge, one side, on the slopes between the meadows and the bullying peaks.
“Oh look, there’s a bench down further”, pointed out my darling wife, “what I need for weary legs!”.
The bench, a simple two armed-length wooden affair much like one at a bus-stop of old, was right in the middle of the valley, calm among the neurotic colours. And did I say there was no one about, well there’s really no one about, none on the crossing paths, no jogger, no one (though in half an hour there would be an intrepid local of similar age huffing and puffing by). Was that how bliss and peace were spelt?
As it turned out I was the one who sat down, consulting the map. What’s that mountain called, where’d this path lead to from here, any nearby bridge to cross the river, should I have a go onto the meadow, chancing the mud underneath the green. And so on and so forth, useless planning questions, useless map-reader. Patently useless, but happy.
Whereas she, no longer concerned with weary legs, was busy examining the minute flowers, checking up her considerable photographic equipment (the back pack was heavy), preparing props, now frowning, now contemplating the peaks, kneeling in front of her babies the flowers, gently touching one, altogether a real photographer and a lover of nature preparing to write poetry by shutter clicks.
The weak sun popped out of clouds from the East, just above a mean peak. I shaded my eyes, looked at her, watching her closely. I am a simple man, never able to fathom the many definitions of love. One day surely I would know of one?
Long Vo-Phuoc, July 2018
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Shower of light ...
... quiet spring night, the air dry as powder, sharp as cut-glass.
(Staubbach)
14 Feb ...
Contemplative
(getting older, one tends to do the same contented things year upon year. Is that happiness? Quite. Yet there is space in the human mind - compartmentalised or otherwise. A train on another track of a busy central station? A lamp post of a university lane a winter night? A latte in a café buried under vast fathom of time .... (Easter 2018))
Easter Friday Dinner
My wife said, no consumption of meat today, let’s have some fish. She has nice Francis of Rome on her side, so I can’t argue with that. Chaps who have no deity from high-up looking after should advisedly never get into a quarrel with their beloved.
Fish? Well there are a million people out there today, driving up and down the city, up and down the coast – in the process gobbling up lobsters, prawns, dories, salmon/tuna sashimi, sundry whatnots from the sea. This is to make up for the fact that they don’t eat meat for the day. It is hard to understand the sentiment: you want to self-sacrifice to show solidarity with Christ, yet wantonly consume away copious marine offerings like there is no tomorrow?
So let’s forget about traffic and restaurants. How about the humble sardines on pasta at home? The small little fish, all the way from the Baltic water in a jar, never expensive enough as to be farmed anywhere, processed almost whole with all their goodies, ah that’s just perfect for a simple meal today (may the fish and the Buddha forgive us). In her hands it would be a three-starred Michelin delicacy.
I’ll do it, she said, have yourself a glass of white but just give me water with ice.
So much to look forward to, Easter quiet time with her. Sardines, slender pasta, sliced carrots, diced capsicums, water, aged sémillon.
A meal certainly of a much better spirit than "Labour Day Dinner" of Ms. Munro.
Long Vo-Phuoc, Easter 2017
Park
One autumn afternoon in 1978 we were sitting on the grass of Hyde Park. The gentle sun reflected nearby on the low-cut green. Brown leaves scattered. Tall figs cast soft shadows – spots of light sparkled to and fro on high.
There were only the two of us in this expanse – facing each other, holding hands. Our jackets on the ground, folded, hers from memory was olive-green. We were a little over-dressed for the park, but we would go back tonight to her brother’s home and there might be a little chill.
Sunlight shined behind her long velvet-brown, fizzling out quite a way from her face. Two rich curls rested on the forehead. Strands strayed on porcelain. I was careful not to close my eyes for longer than an instant, or she might vanish.
I said, I could sit with you all night out here if that pleases you, keeping you warm with our jackets.
She smiled, said, watching over me while I sleep the whole night under the stars?
I said I was truthful. The smile broadened.
I moved to her side, asked, it will be winter in a month, is that wrong that I prefer desolate June over April?
I said I knew a beach years past where the waves rough in winter the wind fierce the sands stiffly soaked in rain. I said in July when the Celsius fell my Woolloomooloo streets would become bare of souls after midnight and I would greet flurries of mist dancing in street light.
She leaned and rested her head on my neck, said, the June July I know are quiet and often sparkling, when they come I’ll draw a cheerful sprig as present for your mind.
We saw patches of blue above, infinite space.
If time slows like this, she said, we could live forever, but surely that’s a cliché one reads a thousand times.
I pressed my face on soft porcelain, replied, I’ll take my time spelling forever.
Long Vo-Phuoc, 14 Feb 2017
Peace
Long Vo-Phuoc
Courtyard, Vico Morcote, mid-autumn, mid-afternoon. Leaves had fallen in days prior. Bench vacant. Empty, but not desolate. Bare branches on trees, but there were promises of life in six months.
Is that so unnatural to find a place no war has visited
years upon many hundred years ...
An existence scarcely believable
We said, could Picasso have made a cubist out of this
We marveled, how time becomes slow,
lost in each other’s mind
... an exquisite lightness of being
(so said Kundera ...)
Long Vo-Phuoc, 2015
Paper Bicycle
Long Vo-Phuoc
This bicycle is for you
to cross the country of the mind
where serene imagination leads
to blobs and smudges of colours on canvases
... the souls of us
to notes of music that are full and radiant
... sounds from the heaven
to a place kookaburras with blue shade on wing laugh on high
cockatoos with curved peaceful beak sulphur crest and snow-white feathers – noisy children on treetops
king parrots showing off long emerald tails, pretty as they come
sparkling creatures of this earth
to a place where prejudices died aeons ago
the givers cool and generous
the receivers graceful, delighted to read books not bear arms
no grievance harboured deep in the scarlet heart
to a place of transcendental water in lakes
spiky pines on banks of mountains
where one sees things forever, past and present
summer green and bright autumn orange
to a place where I hope to always be with you
stealing smiles from your lips with tales east west north south
however the nuances of time
glitches on the ground ...
to such a place, any place really, where I hope to always be with you
all this time, many years have past
and the remains here to the horizon
so this is the bicycle on paper for the mind
(because no one feels like riding the metal horse these days – a little lazy shall we say)
and I shall be chasing while you ride
to wherever that pleases you
running alongside you – my real job in life
nobler than any other
... till I depart - though you should still continue to go on my darling.
Long Vo-Phuoc .... 2016 ..
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Night
Thun - Midst of Autumn
“Isn’t autumn here today?”
(Hôm nay có phải là thu?
Mấy năm xưa đã phiêu-du trở về
Đinh Hùng, “Bài Hát Mùa Thu” (Song for Autumn), Mê Hồn Ca, 1954)
I could do only the first line, and gave up on the second. Really quite a feeble effort from me considering the fact that the pair have to besottedly go with each other. But at this moment I find no decent rhythm, no rhyme, never mind music and colours. Literally: “returning after those long years’ wander”. Good heavens, I hate translating poetry; much-loved Viet lines such as these in particular.
Maybe one day, when my mind is as clear as the sky on Thun that day, as yours always ...
Long Vo-Phuoc, 14 February 2016
Basel Reflection
Squirrel
Red squirrel in Parc de la Grange, Geneva. Small, shy and very pacy. Loves pine nuts and the like. Photo taken by better-half one Sunday morning, early autumn.
Long Vo-Phuoc.